Kutaisi Monasteries: Bagrati, Motsameta and Gelati

Updated: August 24, 2023

I tell you what to see in the monasteries of Kutaisi, Motsameta and Gelati, and in the Bagrati Cathedral, cultural and artistic jewels of the region.

One of the most interesting visits you can make in the Imereti region and a short distance from Kutaisi is to the Motsameta and Gelati monasteries which can be done in half a day.

Bagrati Cathedral, with its fascinating history, usually completes the popular tour of religious buildings in the region.

In case you don't have time to read the entire article, this is the best one tour to Bagrati, Motsameta and Gelati, which you can do with a Spanish-speaking guide.

Bagrati Cathedral

Bagrati Cathedral is the most visited place in the city of Kutaisi, located a short distance from the old town.

In fact, where Bagrati was built was the first settlement in the area on top of Ukimerioni hill for a strategic issue to have visibility in the event of an invasion, something common at that time.

The construction of the cathedral was completed in 1003 during the reign of Bagrat III, hence the name.

Importance of the cathedral

The reason for its construction was to celebrate the unification of Georgia.

Big events were held there, such as the coronation of king david IV in the 12th century, one of the most beloved kings known as David the Builder.

Furthermore, it is considered one of the 4 great cathedrals of the Georgian Orthodox religion Due to their historical importance, they were built between the 10th and 11th centuries.

The other 3 cathedrals are: Oshki completed in the year 973, which is today in Turkish territory; Svetitskhoveli, Mtskheta Cathedral which was completed in 1029; the cathedral of Alaverdi in Kakheti.

⭐ In this article you can read more about the visit to Mtskheta with everything there is to see including the cathedral and lots of practical information.

Ottoman invasion

During the invasion of the Ottoman Empire They devastated the site in 1692 with cannon shots.

Originally, the cathedral was accompanied by a bell tower, the area of walls with towers and other buildings, everything was left in ruins except the bell tower.

Reconstruction and UNESCO

Bagrati Cathedral It was abandoned for 3 centuries, but in 1950 the controversial reconstruction works which lasted until 2012.

In 1994 it was included as a World Heritage Site, later in 2010 it was classified as UNESCO World Heritage Site endangered.

However, UNESCO was concerned about the irreversible alterations that were made They did not preserve the historical value of the place.

Therefore, finally UNESCO in 2017 removed Bagrati Cathedral from the World Heritage list.

What to see when visiting the Bagrati Cathedral?

Bagrati Cathedral is completely renovated where The largest possible number of stones that had been left in the place were used.

Even On the façade you can distinguish the carved stones that are the old ones from the new ones that do not have moldings.

There are actually very few that have moldings, but it is not surprising after seeing the photos at the entrance to the state premises prior to the renovation, the building was really sad.

Inside, the icons on the altar are quite beautiful, but they are recent, they are part of the renovation.

What stands out inside is the marble floor on the altar, although damaged you can appreciate its beauty.

On the other hand, outside, in On the right side you can see some old columns and the small original bell tower.

Then in the door, on the rear façade, was largely saved from the bombing and maintains original construction, although the frescoes were seriously damaged.

Fortress at the bottom of the cathedral

Besides, In the background there are the ruins of the fortress and the wall, but Archaeological excavations have not yet been carried out there and little is known about the functioning of each of the areas.

The reason is that they were waiting for help from UNESCO, something that is probably not going to happen anymore.

Maybe also because they don't want to screw up again, although the latter is just my theory.

Is it worth the visit?

Yes, Bagrati Cathedral It is very worth it for all the history it keeps there, even though it is no longer a World Heritage Site.

Another advantage of this cathedral is its privileged location with views over the city.

To give you an idea of its importance, many people do a quick tour of the old town of Kutaisi and only visit the cathedral. My recommendation is that you don't miss your visit.

Motsameta Monastery

The picturesque Motsameta monastery stands on a cliff next to the river Ckalcitela (you will also see it written as Tskaltsitela).

It was built by King Bagrat III in the 11th century to keep the remains of the brothers David and Constantine, canonized by the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Although there was already a previous church on the site.

Martyrs, names and location of the monastery

David and Constantine were revealed to the Arabs during the 8th century invasion. However, the rebellion failed and they were captured.

To save themselves they were offered to convert to Islam, but as they refused They were tortured, murdered and thrown into the river.

According to legend, the river turned red from the blood of the martyrs, hence the name of the Ckalcitela river which means "red water."

The bodies were dragged by the river, then the lions captured them and took them to the hill where it was built Motsameta, It means "place of the martyrs."

Religious importance

Motsameta monastery is quite small, but From a religious point of view it is very important for Georgians for the sacred remains of the brothers.

Martyrs' Day is commemorated every October 15.

The Bolsheviks in 1923 They brought the remains of David and Constantine to the Kutaisi museum.

This caused a huge uproar among the Georgians and they eventually had to be returned to Motsameta.

Is it worth your visit?

Yes, it is one of the most charming monasteries in Georgia, mainly because of the indisputable external beauty of the monastery.

In addition, it has an unbeatable location.

👍 Fact: There is a place on the road on the way to the monastery where you can take good photos.

What to see inside Motsameta?

Once you enter the monastery there is a charming stone and wood bridge

The construction is quite amazing, if you look over the side of the bridge you will see the stone of the building and the rock of the mountain that join together in such a way that it is difficult to tell where each begins and ends.

Then in the enclosure there is a patio with a bell tower and the small church. From the patio you can see a private area of the monastery where you can make retreats.

The most notable thing inside the church are the remains of saints David and Constantine.

Of all the colorful fresh, some stand out on the right side with the capture, torture and canonization of the brothers.

Legend about the secret passage

According to a legend there is a secret underground passage that connects this monastery with that of Gelati, built as an escape in times of war.

These passages were quite normal in ancient times, for example in Mtskheta there is a tunnel that connects the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral with the Jvari Monastery.

Gelati Monastery

The Gelati Monastery founded in the 12th century by King David IV as a monastic and educational center. At that time Kutaisi was the capital of the kingdom.

An academy was built on the monastery grounds with teaching theology, philosophy and sciences.

In those times education was reserved for a few and David IV, a very beloved king and known as David the Builder, He made education available to the people.

Today, Gelati is listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 1994 because buildings are a great example of the Georgian Golden Age from the 12th and 13th centuries.

monastery buildings

The construction of the monastery buildings was from the 12th to the 17th century.

One of the first to be completed was the main church dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, It has delicate low-relief ornamentation and blind arches.

Something very striking about this church is its small chapels sides.

The door that connects the central nave with the chapels can be closed so that could function independently with its door that leads directly to the outside.

There are two other churches in the area, that of San Jorge, which stands out for its frescoes and that of San Nicolás, which has two floors.

Likewise, you will find a bell tower with a spring on the ground floor that channels water into the monastery in a 12th century plumbing system, renovated several times.

It also remains the academy building with a roof that was completely renovated.

This rectangular building does not stand out too much, except for the reliefs at the entrance.

fresh

The frescoes in Gelati are one of the best things to see there with great artistic and historical value.

These frescoes are from most impressive that you will find in all of Georgia for their color and they cover the entire ceilings and walls.

In general, the frescoes are very well preserved.. Although in some of the side chapels you will notice that some frescoes have their faces erased, or even a large part of the fresco was erased.

Also another thing that draws attention is the fresco of Queen Tamar in one of the chapels, which was completely erased and there is only its outline.

Mosaics

Part of the construction of the buildings coincided with the Byzantine Empire and you can see his influence in the main church.

Do not miss, The largest mosaic is in the apse of the church depicting the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus.

Tomb of King David IV

in the monastery is the tomb of King David IV (1089-1125).

Who, instead of erecting a grandiose pantheon, as any other monarch would have done, simply laid himself in his tomb a tombstone on the floor of the entrance.

According to the Georgians it is a sample of the humility of his much appreciated king.

On his tombstone it says:

“Jesus, this is my resting place now and forever, this is how I want to be buried.”

If you go by car you will enter through the parking lot entrance, his grave is next to the entrance on the left side, next to a grand old metal door.

Tomb of Queen Tamar

Sometime It was thought that the tomb of Queen Tamar (1184-1213) was also located in Gelati.

But apparently today historians have the theory that is somewhere else, although until it is found will remain a mystery.

Renovations

The complex is located in constant renovations supervised by UNESCO to preserve the cultural and historical wealth of the place.

When I was there, they were in the midst of restoring the main church, both the façade and the interior.

Religious operation and celebration

Gelati remained closed during Soviet times and the patriarch consecrated it so that it could operate again. Today it functions as a monastery.

Its biggest religious celebration is August 28, which is the nativity of the Virgin Mary., where there are services preceded by the archbishop or patriarch.

Practical Tips

• Time zone of Bagrati: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day, it is not closed on Mondays as Google Maps says, I went on a Monday. 😉
• Time to visit Bagrati: between 30 and 45 minutes
• Time zone of Motsameta: every day from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., but during the liturgy they may limit entry due to their small size.
• Visiting time Motsameta: 30 minutes at most.
• Time of Gelati: every day from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
• Time to visit Gelati: 1:30 a.m., it may be less, but it will depend on how much fun you have.
• Entry Fee:: free, but if it is within your means, leave a donation to help with maintenance.
• Outfit: You will need to wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. In addition, women have to cover their hair with a scarf (they have them to borrow there) and it is preferable not to enter with pants, they also have skirts to wear over them.

How to visit Kutaisi Cathedral?

Bagrati Cathedral It is just over 1 km from the Colchis fountain in the center of Kutaisi, that's why you can make the visit without much complication.

If you walk it is less than 20 minutes.

You can see the view on your own, but unlike other religious buildings, this one has so much history that It is worth going with a guide to make the most of the visit..

How to visit the monasteries of Kutaisi?

1. Taxi

Motsameta is 6 km from Kutaisi and Gelati 10 km, a taxi can cost you from about 30 lari to do the entire tour and return to Kutaisi.

2. Driving

A good way to visit the nearby areas of Kutaisi is by driving, the monasteries are within walking distance and there is not much traffic, it will be a smooth ride.

Although you can find a cow or pig walking along the road freely.😄

If you want to rent a car I recommend this search engine that works only with companies serious premises and have the most competitive prices, with insurance included and in general no deposit is required.

3. Hiking

Although I put hiking, actually The best way to go to both monasteries on foot is by road.

The first part near the city of Kutaisi there is some traffic, then it becomes more pleasant because There are not too many cars.

The route is easy, although the round trip is almost 20 km, the difference in elevation is not too great.

To get to Motsameta the gradient is 178 m, but it is very progressive and does not become difficult.

Then from the town to Gelati it is a little more demanding because the difference in altitude is 220 m in a shorter section.

But if you have experience hiking or a minimum of physical condition it will not be a problem.

• Total distance: 19.54 km
• Minimun height: 155m
• Maximum height: 426 m

4. Excursion

You can easily visit these monasteries on your own as I have explained in the previous points.

But If you can, go with a guide who will be able to explain many more details to you. about its history, especially about Gelati.

Many excursions usually add a stop at the bagrati cathedral completing the pack of historic religious buildings in the area, like this one link excursion that you can select to do it with a guide in Spanish.

Final Thoughts

These are the visits to the Bagrati Cathedral and the Motsameta and Gelati monasteries, I hope that after reading the article you have wanted to visit them.

Even if religious buildings or cultural visits are not your thing (like me), I assure you that they are very worth it.

If you had to choose just one, I would say go to Gelati at least to see its wonderful frescoes.

In case I have left any topic untouched, leave me a comment below and I will help you in any way I can. And if you found the article useful, share it with other travelers. Have a good trip!

More about Georgia and the Caucasus

• 9 Best Tours from Kutaisi
• How to go to Kutaisi, get around the city and surroundings
• What to do in Kutaisi: a complete guide