Guide to Visiting Kazbegi and Ananuri

Updated: December 31, 2023

A visit to Kazbegi is almost a must for anyone traveling to Georgia, I will tell you everything what to see in Kazbegi, how to get there and many tips.

If you are going to travel to Georgia you cannot miss visit Kazbegi with its iconic mountaintop church, which is one of the most popular postcard images in the country.

Kazbegi is located very close to the border with Russia, in the heart of the Greater Caucasus, with peaks that exceed 5,000 m in height, including Mount Elbrus which is the highest in Europe.

Although the famous church is a very popular site among tourists, it is an area that if you like nature and especially the mountains to climbing, hiking or trekking you will be able to enjoy a lot.

There are several interesting routes to see there. waterfalls, mountain lakes, glaciers in dream landscapes.

At the end of the article I leave you a map with all the places I mention.

Military Highway

A road passes through Kazbegi, known as military highway, which has allowed trade and cultural growth, at the same time as the invasions since ancient times.

At the end of the article I will tell you how to get to Kazbegi, here I only explain a little about this famous road, its importance and what you can visit along the way.

A little history about the Military Highway

The military road It is the most famous highway in all of Georgia that connects Tbilisi with the city of Vladikavkaz in Russia, passing through the middle of the Caucasus through the Darial Gorge.

It was along this road where Russian troops entered in 1769 with the aim of helping Georgia defend itself from the Persian invaders.

Since they were there, why leave? 😅🙊 Georgia officially became part of the Russian Empire in 1801 and then to the USSR.

In the past, there were two other roads linking Russia and Georgia, but both are now in Russian-occupied territories.

One of them passes through the Republic of Adkhazia, a republic only recognized by Russia and four other countries; and the other passes through South Ossetia, a territory that is now in Russian hands.

This last territory, South Ossetia, I will mention again below, because it is an area that you should not enter even by mistake during your visit to Kazbegi.

Commercial importance

Currently, the military road is the only one that allows trade between Russia and Georgia, at the same time as between Armenia and Russia.

Therefore, when you are on your way to Kazbegi you will find lines of hundreds of trucks on the side of the road waiting to cross the border.

Tour of the Military Highway

The Georgian military road is a 160 km stretch from Tbilisi to the border crossing.

The most important points through which this road passes are:

• The ancient city of Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery In this linked article you can read more.
• Continuing along the road, there is the Jinvali reservoir and Ananuri fort. These two sites are not in the municipality of Kazbegi, but they are usually visited in conjunction with the Kazbegi area, that is why I will tell you about them in this article.
• Once you arrive in Kazbegi, you will meet Gudauri.
• Before reaching the border, the most emblematic place in the region is the Church of Guergueti.

If you want to visit all these places, I recommend this 1 day excursion.

How to get around Kazbegi?

The best way to get around Kazbegi is to drive, so you can stop at each place to visit.

In case you go to rent a car in Georgia I recommend this search engine that works with serious and cheap Georgian companies.

To go to the main towns there are minibuses (marshrutkas), but then you will have to move with taxis to get to the other places.

Also, in this area, taxis are not cheap at all because they know that there are not many other options and they are a mafia.

Below in each place I will tell you the transportation alternatives for each place and I will recommend some excursions that I went with, which in many cases are cheaper than going by taxi.

⭐ Check out this article for further insights on How to rent and drive a car in Georgia and neighboring countries.

Stepantsminda and Kazbegi Is it the same?

Kazbegi is a small municipality in Georgia that borders Russia., and belongs to the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

The main urban settlement in Kazbegi is Stepantsminda with less than 1,400 inhabitants, according to the latest census.

The name Stepantsminda was given after Saint Stephen, who was the monk who built the hermitage where the Guergueti Church is now.

During the Soviet period the town was renamed Kazbegi, but eventually the government returned it to its original name in 2006, i.e. Stepantsminda.

Although, many people still call the town Kazbegi.

What to see in Kazbegi and Ananuri?

I will tell you the order of the places from the most interesting place on the route which is the Guergueti Church, what is around it, to go down the road to where Ananuri and the reservoir are.

1.Stepantsminda village

The village of Stepantsminda or Kazbegi was founded between the 6th and 5th century BC.

It is a charming town, more than for its red-roofed houses, it is for its fascinating mountain landscape that surrounds it. in the middle of the Caucasus mountain range.

This town is not only next to the famous church, but it is perfect to base yourself if you are going to tour the area and go climbing, hiking or trekking in its high mountain peaks.

– How to Get There

To get to Stepantsminda you can go by minibus (marshrutka) that leaves from Didube station in Tbilisi.

You can easily reach Didube with the metro, which has a station of the same name.

The marshrutkas They leave from Didube between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., take 3 hours and cost 15 lari (5.44 euros) the trip.

⭐ Here you can read more about How to get around Tbilisi and Georgia.

2. Gergeti Church

The visit to the Guergueti Church is a classic for tourists because it is one of the most iconic places in the country for their impressive views.

At the same time, it is a place of pilgrimage for the Georgian Orthodox faithful.

The church, whose full name is Guergueti Trinity Church It is located at 2,200 m high with the impressive Mount Kazbek in the background, the fourth highest mountain in the Caucasus with its 5,047 m.

This church is where Saint Stephen built the hermitage, a location that he chose not for the fabulous views, but for a strategic reason. to avoid avalanches.

The current church dates back to the 14th century and belongs to an ecclesiastical enclosure along with other buildings.

Your visit is one of the best things to do in Kazbegi.

– What to see there?

In addition, the image of the church with the mountain in the background is a classic, as is the landscape that surrounds it.

Then from the church views of the valley with the small town and the Térek river they are beautiful.

In the playlist below you can see the mountains surrounding the church from the road and the church rising majestically in the background.

– How to get to the church?

• If you go to drive You can go up without problems, especially if you travel between late spring, summer or early fall.
• To go to the church there is no public transport, but there is a 4×4 van service that charges 20 laris for getting on and off. The exit is from the parking lot that is right at the beginning of the road that goes up to the church (I will leave it marked on the map below). Once you arrive at the church they give you 30 minutes to visit and to take you back down.
• If you don't want to complicate things you can join one excursion like this which includes the best of Kazbegi with stops also in Gudauri, Ananuri and the reservoir (I tell you more about these 3 places below). This way you don't have to worry about anything because they even pick you up at a central point in Tbilisi.

– Hiking to the Guergueti Church

Another alternative is to do the hiking route to the church, it is an easy 7 km route, to the point that you won't even need hiking shoes, you can even do it with sneakers.

Although personally, I always believe that a shoe with a minimum of grip makes a difference.

The route is simple, especially if you are used to hiking, but a minimum of physical condition is required.

3. Trekking from Stepantsminda

If you are going trekking, some of the best routes leave from the town or very close by, I will tell you a little about the two most popular:

• Mount Kazbek from Gveleti which is close to the border with Russia, the route is 12.2 km, with a gradient of 1,339 m and takes about 7 hours. This is a difficult but quite popular route. Here you have the link of All Trails.
• Gergeti Glacier from Stepantsminda, this is one of the most popular routes in all of Georgia, but with a difficult level. The route is 12.4 km, with a gradient of 1,189 m and takes about 6.5 hours. You can download the route here at All Trails.

😍 Curiosities: a part of the Kazbegi municipality belongs to the Kazbegi National Park, where some of the most beautiful points are located such as: Mount Kazbek, the Truso Valley, the Gveleti waterfall and the Gergeti Glacier, one of the 30 glaciers in the area.

4. Waterfalls and route to the Russian border (green on the map)

Throughout the municipality of Kazbegi you will find many waterfalls to visit.

1. The next to the village of Stepantsminda there is a waterfall within walking distance, but if you don't travel in summer you can find it frozen.
2. If you are going to drive, I recommend continuing the route until near the Russian border which is only 12 km from Stepantsminda, there you will meet the Gveleti Grande waterfall. It is to do a short and easy hiking route of 3.5 km. The parking lot costs 3 lari (1.09 euros).
3. Finally, There is another waterfall next to the border, Although I didn't find it that impressive, the surroundings of the area are very beautiful.

👍 Friend's tip: In case you do this route, before reaching these last two waterfalls there is a nice viewpoint over the Terek valley Where to stop to take photos. I also leave it marked on the map at the end of the article.

5. Hiking in Juta and trekking along the Chaukhi Pass (blue on the map)

– Hiking from Juta to Chaukhi Lake

In Kazbegi one of the most popular hiking routes is the part that goes from Juta to Chaukhi Lake passing by a small waterfall.

The views of the entire route are very picturesque with the mountains and especially with the Chaukhi mountain.

The mountain has a modest height for the Caucasus, only 3,605 m, but its crest with 7 sharp peaks They give it a unique majesty.

This hiking trail in Georgia, it has a round trip distance of just 7 km and is quite easy. It starts with a steep slope, but the rest has a very slight ascent.

The only drawback, which can make the route a little more difficult, is the altitude sickness Because it is high in the mountains, you will be walking above 2,500 m above sea level and you can notice it.

– Trekking from Juta to Roshka

If you prefer to trek, from Chaukhi lake you can continue over Chaukhi pass to Roshka.

The total route (from Juta) It is 20.4 km, with a positive gradient of 1,255 m and it takes between 8 and 9 hours in doing it.

The route is spectacular, but it is a difficult route that can be done in 1 day or 2 days, here you can download it at All Trails.

– Recommendations for trekking

• If you are going before summer begins, keep in mind that you may find snow. I did the hiking route in mid-May, there was still a layer of 60 cm of half-melted snow in some areas and there was no way to avoid it. Wear waterproof shoes and clothing.
• You must take all the food and water you will need with you because there is nowhere to buy. One option is to take a water purifier like the one in the link, which weighs little and at least you save yourself from carrying all the water.
• If you do the route in 2 days there is a guesthouse along the way (mark it on the map below), otherwise you should take everything with you to camp.

– How to get to Juta?

Juta is a small town of about 20 houses where there are not even shops, There is no public transportation to get there..

Then you will have to drive or negotiate with a taxi driver to take you from Stepantsminda.

Another alternative is that you go with this hiking excursion departing from Tbilisi, which take you on two small hiking routes.

One is Juta's and the other is Gveleti Grande waterfall near the Russian border, which I told you about above (point 4.2).

👍 Friend's tip: when you go on the road that goes towards Juta, 3 km after leaving the Military road on the right side, there are some sculptures of giant heads by artist Merab Phiranishvili. The sculptures are reminiscent of those on Easter Island and are worth a stop. I have marked it for you on the map below. 😉

6. Truso Valley

The Truso valley is another of the most popular areas of Kazbegi for hiking through its beautiful landscapes.

There are several routes, but the best known is the one that goes from the village Kvemo Okrokana to the ruins of the Zakagori fortress.

This route is 19.6 km, with a gradient of 439 m and takes about 5 hours in making it, here you can download it from All Trails.

The level is medium, especially because of the distance, but the walk itself is not very complicated, if you are used to hiking it will be easy for you.

🔔 ATTENTION: The Truso Valley is next to South Ossetia and you should not go to that region under any circumstances.

If you cross, you could have problems with the Russian military, because It's a busy area..

Therefore, it is better that Don't venture too far beyond the route I recommended. above or visit it with a guide who knows the area.

– How to go to Truso Valley?

• To go to the Truso Valley there is no public transport. However, there is an alternative, you can go from Tbilisi with the same marshrutka that goes to Stepantsminda. You will have to ask for get off at Kobi on the military road, it is a town that is 20 km before reaching Stepantsminda. From there you have to walk 4 km to the start of the hiking trail in Kvemo Okrokana.
• In case you want to see the area, but not walk, you can join a off-road excursion which includes stops at the most beautiful places in Kazbegi.
• Another even more complete alternative is this 2 day excursion including Kazbegi, David Gareja and Kakheti, Georgia's wine region.

⭐ In this article you can read more about the visit to Kakheti and in this other one about him David Gareja Monastery and the surroundings.

7. Gudauri and the Friendship Monument

Gudauri is a quite famous town where the military highway passes, but it cannot be said that it is a beautiful or interesting town.

However, you have two things that make it famous:

1. Friendship Monument

The Monument of Friendship between Russia and Georgia was built in 1983, it was to commemorate the 200 years of the Treaty of Georgievsk where Russia pledged to protect Georgia and guarantee its territorial integrity.

This monument was highly criticized because Russia only complied with the protection part.

On the inside of the monument there is a immense mural made of tiles that tells passages from the history of Georgia and Russia.

The monument itself is beautiful, but the views over the Caucasus are the best part, because it is located on a cliff at 2,384 m high.

If you go through the military highway this is a obligatory stop that will leave you speechless.

Therefore, many excursions include this stop, like this one that is super popular and well priced.

By the way, above in the video playlist you can see a short of the entire monument mural.

2. Winter sports resort

However, long before the monument was built, Gudauri was already a well-known winter sports resort, especially skiing and snowboarding.

In fact, there are the main ski slopes in the country for advanced levels.

– How to get to Gudauri?

To get to Gudauri you can also go with the same marskrutka that goes to Kazbegi.

If you travel to Georgia in winter to ski, I recommend this one. tour that is very cheap, includes transportation to Gudauri so you don't have to worry.

Additionally, it includes stops at Ananuri Fort and Jinvali Reservoir.

8. Paragliding in Gudauri

If you like adventure sports, in Georgia there are several places to paraglide, such as in the Tbilisi sea, in this article about What to see and do in Tbilisi I'll tell you more.

Although, the most beautiful place to paraglide in Georgia, is in Gudauri for its spectacular mountain landscapes.

The good thing about paragliding in Georgia are the prices, it is much cheaper than in Spain or other countries in the European Union.

I leave you a link where to reserve a paragliding flight in Gudauri in tandem for a full adrenaline experience. 😎

9. Ananuri Fortress

The Ananuri Fortress built in the 17th century, is another of the obligatory stops along the military highway.

Inside the fortress some of the buildings that stand out are the church with its intricate ornaments at the main entrance, with human, animal and floral reliefs.

Then the tower stands out for its stepped pyramidal roof, a style typical of the Svaneti area. Once there, you can also visit the wall with its turrets.

Another interesting point about Ananuri is its strategic location next to the Aragvi river to take the typical postcard photo. If you are not unlucky enough to go when the river is almost dry as happened to me at the end of winter. 😅

The visit to Ananuri is very popular to do together with the visit to Kazbegi, basically because it is on the way.

Therefore, you will find many excursions including Ananuri, as well as a stop at the reservoir at the next point and it is super cheap. Below you can check availability and reserve.

10. Jinvali Reservoir

10 km from the Ananuri fortress there is a viewpoint over the Jinvari reservoir or Zhinvali in Georgian where you can take beautiful photos.

There are also several stalls selling souvenirs, food and drinks.

This is usually a frequent stop on excursions, not only for the views, it is also a strategic stop to go to the toilet. 😉

The good news is that all the buildings I include in the article are from free entrance. 🤑

Map of visiting Kazbegi

* To check the legend for each place, click the button in the top left corner of the map. To view this map on your phone or computer, tap the star on the right side of the title. Then go to Google Maps, select "Your Places" and "Maps" from the menu.

When to visit Kazbegi?

You can visit Kazbegi during most of the year.

As far as landscapes are concerned, it is very worth seeing it in different seasons that change colors, each one with a special beauty.

Maybe winter can be the hardest time because it is very cold and in some places the strong wind stops you from wanting to extend your visit too long.

For example, I visited the Guergueti church at the end of winter, I went with an excursion and then we went up in the 4×4 that leaves you 30 minutes to visit.

At first I thought 30 minutes wouldn't be enough, but it was so windy up there that before 30 minutes was up I was ready to leave. Still, the views with the snow-capped mountains were beautiful.

Then, if you are going to do a specific activity, you will have to go in a certain season of the year:

• Trekking: The best time to go trekking is in summer and especially in July and August.
• Hiking: In addition to the summer months, late spring and early autumn are also good times. Although it may happen to you like me that in Juta in mid-May I found a lot of half-melted snow.
• Ski and snowboard: The ski months in Gudauri are from December to March, although the best months are January and February. However, unlike Bakuriani, Gudauri does not usually lack snow.
• Paragliding: The best weather conditions for paragliding are during the summer.

Where to stay in Kazbegi?

Unless you are going skiing, the best place to stay is in Gudauri, where the best hotel is the Gudauri Inn.

For the rest of your visits I recommend that you stay in Kazbegi (Stepantsminda).

Below I recommend several hotels for different budgets:

• Luxury: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi with the best views of the valley with Mount Kazbek in the background.
• Half: Kazbegi Hut with a typical mountain decoration, with exposed stone and wood.
• Cheap: Veranda Guesthouse It has a terrace with beautiful views.

Final Thoughts

If you are traveling to Georgia and have little time, you cannot miss visiting Kazbegi.

The mountain landscapes in the area are impressiveAnd the best of all is that it is a easy access area that you can reach without problems by car, public transport or on a full-day excursion.

I assure you will not regret. Have a good trip!

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